They tell me exactly which exit it is, but I'm so captivated by the scenery around me, feeling infinitely removed from the world of excess vanity I turned my back on a few hours ago, that I miss it.

Here, the clean air is accessible for all, the beautifully scattered hills are universally approachable, the glimpses of sunlight paint long shadows on anyone blending into the landscape. The fiery sunset burns my eyes, the music on the radio slowly fades, I stop it to hear the silence outside. The place would soon be filled with the pink color of the sunset, and the last rays of sunlight would playfully touch the hills, then descend the winding staircase into the ground and hide. The views outside seem to have been melded by some master craftsman, with birds flitting everywhere, and the eye-catching sparks from the little grape clusters are so sweet. 

There is time till the harvest. 

Natural embroidery around me fills the space as far as the eye can see. 

The car seat already feels boring, it's time to take a walk. 

I arrived at AYA Estate Vineyards' new home before sunset and, believe me, the place is impressive. Behind this wine haven, there’s a history of traditions in viticulture, production and wine trade. I ask how these broad vineyards are preserved. They tell me there is a nature tax that is well worth paying. “Some use weapons, they crack, rattle, put up nets. Not here. The vineyards are not watered. The vineyards are not being covered. We grow the actual vegetation underneath, cereals, alfalfa, mustard. It is important to mess with the soil as little as possible. We just keep them in a state where they do not interfere with the development of the vineyards. We just prune them, mow them.” The words are those of agronomist Veselina Kasabova, who kindly showed me around. 

The production of wine in our lands has a long history, if we were to date it, we would have to go back to the time of the Thracians, 4 millennia ago. It is said that apparently there isn't a single Bulgarian who hasn’t at some point been affected by work in this field. The winery itself is the heir to the viticultural knowledge of several generations, with over 80 years of experience in the production and export of Sungurlar Misket, mainly to Western Europe. After the nationalisation of the land, the possibility of limited family production still remains. 

The idea to create “AYA Estate Vineyards” near the Greek border was conceived around the year 2015. At its core is a dream come true for two families of friends – to be the custodians of those distinctive winemaking traditions in the Melnik region by preserving, restoring and promoting endemic, autochthonous varieties. Biodynamics is also perceived as fundamental: “The philosophy itself dates back to Rudolf Steiner's lectures”, continues Veselina, “Even then, a hundred years ago, Steiner himself said that it would be difficult to understand him and that it would take about a hundred years for people to fully grasp his message.” And indeed, a hundred years pass, and here we are today, a hundred years later. Steiner talks about the application of biodynamics not only to vines, but also to cereals and vegetable crops. The concept suggests leaving the plant as close as possible to nature, to its native habitat, to its natural development. Then the food will have the highest biological value and will thus give back the most to its keeper. 

“Let's stop for just a second, I want to show you this vine…” This “let's stop for just a second” happens often during the tour through the vineyards. Little specks of light pierce the grapes, the rays seep through the leaves and bury themselves somewhere in the soil. The sky is not that vibrant, it darkens as if it is about to rain, but in truth, the sun and the heat have saturated everything and now their time has come. The sun is scorching at times, but not unpleasantly so, and the magnificent view of the vine-draped hills reminds me of sailing boats scattered in a sea. 

The local varieties have not been uprooted, only the construction has been replaced. There are, of course, newly planted vines. Everything else is from the 1980s. “The difference between biodynamics and conventional cultivation is that when you look at the vineyards, everything is taken into account – the bees, the worms, all insects and birds. There are no weeds, there are only complementary plants. The idea is that when there are companion crops, they contribute to the biodiversity within the soil – whether taste-wise or mineralising, their role is not to be underestimated.” 

Actually, if we take this interesting concept of “companion crops”, something of a similar sort will be happening around the winery building itself once it opens. Not only will the wine production be taking place there – a very modern and at the same time traditional technology – but also the surrounding area has an interesting landscape design – flowers in bloom all year-round, decorative plants and bushes. Indulging in all kinds of pleasures – from delicious food and tastings, to cultural events, to simply gazing at the sunset – is all part of the place's virtues. Moreover, it already feels alive and animated. Light leaves shimmering traces on the floor and walls, alternating between a thin glimmering strip and a generous waterfall of light. You feel that everything around you is built and nurtured to create beautiful memories. The architecture is so impressive that, for a moment, ideas of events, exhibitions, talks, friendly dinners spur in my mind. It will be nice, I'm sure of it. 

At AYA Estate Vineyards, art is an intrinsic part of their identity. The building has an impressive selection of contemporary art from national and international artists – paintings, sculptures, multimedia visuals. The magic of the view outside flows into the atmosphere of the interior. Every detail builds on a cultural environment, subordinate to the architectural character of the building, and wins your heart. 

As I walk through the vineyards, I get the sense of a harmonious world where every element is uniquely balanced, has its place, and meaning. I think of how the wine I will drink tonight will gently provoke my imagination. This evening, despite it being summer, will carry the ruby color of the broad mill vine, evoking memories of ripe cherries, of childhood blackberries, but also of the tobacco leaves I see on the way back from the winery. 

The wine's finish is light, delicate, and fresh. It leaves a lingering feeling of a free spirit, like that of the winery. I leave with the feeling that I have stumbled into a winery where every detail is beautiful. It's quiet and discreet, there's a sense of sincerity and an analogue life. There's a burst of passion, there's a precisely selected instrument of musical notes. I know that the lasting connection to the surroundings is not accidental, and I will certainly be back there again. 

Soon…

text: KONSTANTIN VULKOV